A quiet diving vacation in the Philippines was the backdrop to my first revolution in late January 2001. Testimonies against then President Estrada's alleged kick-backs ignited public sentiment, drawing hundreds of thousands of people to block the streets of Manila in protest. The military were mobilised to disperse the crowds, but soon reported, somewhat haplessly, that there was no longer any space left in the streets for people to disperse into. Within hours, national TV carried footage of protesters making garlands and BBQ-ing chicken for hungry, albeit bashful tank commanders as a full-on street party ensued. A wannabe pilot sprayed 'Resign' on the presidential chopper, then flew precarious circles over the cheering crowd. Within four days President Arroyo was sworn in, Estrada resigned (in that order) and the Second People Power Revolution was over - the first having overthrown Marcos in '86. Filipinos had approached their revolution in much the same way as they approach everything; they made it a good excuse to party and share food with strangers.
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| Manila Jan 2001: Protesters cheer as President Estrada's chopper, sprayed with the word 'Resign' is flown in circles overhead |
Fifteen years later I had a ring-side seat in Seoul for South Korea's Candlelight Revolution to oust President Geun Hye Park. She and her bestie created a sports foundation to which conglomerates were invited to make hefty donations totalling something north of US$750m. The single recipient seems to have been the bestie's daughter who received horses and training sufficient to qualify for Korea's national equestrian team despite a world ranking of only around 600. Ever eschewing attention and with far too much restraint for street parties, Koreans quietly filled the streets of Seoul on weekend evenings, holding candles aloft, politely asking for a new president, please, if it's not too much trouble, thank-you very much, Sir.
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| Seoul, 2016: South Korea's very polite Candlelight Revolution to oust President Park |
Curiously, from Monday to Friday there was no stir of protest; people went about their daily lives as normal; the revolution seemed to be strictly a weekend hobby. After 3 months of such 'hobbying', impeachment proceedings finally began which would eventually star high-rolling witnesses such as the de facto head of Samsmug - who was subsequently sentenced to 5 years for approx. half of all contributions. As heir apparent to a family business which generates up to 30% of South Korea's GDP, with a market capitalisation larger than the sum of the next 9 corporations listed on the Korean stock exchange, Mr JY Lee seemed quite baffled to suddenly find himself accountable to institutions of state such as the police, the courts or the president.
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| At court: South Korea's very own Louis XIV modelling his finest "L'etat, ce moi" look for the cameras. |
In Korea, respected Confucian wisdom teaches that the smallest drops of water falling on a stone will finally split the stone. This was ultimately vindicated by the 6 months it took for the people, acting as many drops of water, to oust the president.
My move to Hong Kong in July this year was marked by the start of the greatest civil unrest in recent memory - an unhappy co-incidence, I am told. Mass protests have ranged from very effective, peaceful sit-ins at the airport through mindless vandalism of Chinese businesses to laying siege to university buildings. Overbridges, underpasses and bus shelters across the city have become impromptu 'Lennon Walls'; plastered with leaflets accusing HK's Legislative Council of corruption, its CEO of being complicit with Beijing and portraying the police as doped thugs.
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| A student seating area turned into an impromptu 'Lennon Wall' at HK University campus at Sai Ying Pun. |
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| Bus shelters plastered in accusations against police, the government and China |
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| "The words of the prophets are written on the subway walls..."; dark omens in a Kowloon underpass |
One of the most striking features about Hong Kong's Generation Z (born after 1995) is their unanimously derogatory view of mainland China; unkind at best and spiteful at worst. Young Hongkongers strongly self-identify as separate and (inexplicably) superior to mainland Chinese; regurgitating the popular belief that China's cities are dirty and their people exploitative - even though the same Hongkongers readily admit they have not actually visited China, and definitely never would. This open hostility is highly accentuated in Hong Kong above and beyond anything evident in neighbouring Macau or Taiwan for example, and fuels activism from astonishingly young people.
Perhaps predictably, a children's crusade born in the internet age is influenced less by noted philosophers, politicians or strategists and more by popular fantasy counter-culture, evidenced by the highly visible references to the movie 'V for Vendetta'; especially the warning;
Perhaps predictably, a children's crusade born in the internet age is influenced less by noted philosophers, politicians or strategists and more by popular fantasy counter-culture, evidenced by the highly visible references to the movie 'V for Vendetta'; especially the warning;
"People shouldn't be afraid of their governments,
governments should be afraid of their people".
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| Life imitating art; the spirit of V channelled by the protesters of HK |
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| 8 police stop and search 4 youngsters during Saturday lunchtime opposite Arsenal House Police Headquarters in Wanchai |
The most daring activists detained by police are often high-schoolers; wearing black body protection, gas masks and helmets, they are agile as rabbits and easily able to give chubby riot police quite the run around through the narrow streets and alleys.
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| Children's Crusade: "...Pawns in the game are not victims of chance..." |
While the mainstream media debates who are the chess players and who are the pawns, explores theories of foreign interference and ponders where it will all end, hoards of journalists and aspiring freelancers attempt to capture every street fight to post on social media. Since SM is driven by likes, views, followers and retweets, the temptation to post selectively edited highlights embellished with incendiary comment becomes irresistible.
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| HK riot police; not really getting into the festive spirit at M&S |
As this evening's breeze drifts over the balcony, it carries the familiar clanking sounds of students dismantling iron railings to blockade the road - again. The acrid smell of burning plastic trash bins competes with the infusion of juniper and elderflower trying to surface from my glass of Hendrick's. Jagger's lyric referencing 1968's London riots protesting the Vietnam war squawks from the tapas bar below;
"…Everywhere I hear the sound, of marching charging feet, boy,
'Cause summer's here and the time is right, for fighting in the street, boy…"
'Cause summer's here and the time is right, for fighting in the street, boy…"
It's a reminder that every now and then comes a generation which desperately needs to feel relevant; this appears to be the moment for HK's Generation Z. While prejudice and fear reign over knowledge and dialogue, we may yet see how easy it is to tip a modern, phenomenally wealthy culture over the edge into curfews, lethal force and people being immolated for simply holding a different opinion.
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| "...The step between ecstatic vision and sinful frenzy is all too brief..." The Name of The Rose, 1986 |
